Blown FU1 and D1 port


#1

So my Farmbot stopped working to find out that the FU1 is blown. So I replaced that and then the D1 blew. Is there away to replace the D1 or do I have to order a new Farmduino?

The D1 relay, right above the reset button is white and gave me black smoke when I plugged it in


#2

It looks like the reset circuit.
Page 10 of the schematics:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/134WF7_-Zx2K02DBhB11PzMR6RrZ-Ftej/view?usp=drivesdk

It is a bit unclear to me what the value of D1 is. Maybe you or someone else can see something I missed.
If you can determine the value, and you have access to rework tools (soldering tools), you could try replacing it. However, this may just be symptomatic of another short or problem. It might be wise to replace the board. But, before you do, I would check to make sure that something outside of the board (connected stuff - motors, lights, pumps, etc.) are functioning. It would suck to swap boards, plug in the new one and have the same part burn because of an external cause.

Maybe also add another picture or three of the board. If it was a bit more clear maybe we could look for other clues/burnt parts…


#3

Do you know where I could get another borad?
Or what do I replace it with?


#4

If you think you can remove & replace (solder rework), the part is cheap (I can probably find one and send your way).
The board is more costly (~$150, I think).
Lets ask the FB Crew if they can provide a value for the part at “D1” on Farmduino…
@roryaronson
@Gabriel


#5

Opps!
It is actually page 3 of the schematics…
section is “IO”
heeheehee


#6

It might be:

R20 10K,1%,0603
(a 10K resistor with 1% tolerance in a 603 size package)
Looks to be SMD (Surface Mount Device)
If you think you can do the rework, just go order one (or a few) here:

https://www.digikey.com/products/en/resistors/chip-resistor-surface-mount/52?k=R20+1%+603+10K&k=&pkeyword=R20+1%+603+10K&sv=0&pv2085=u10+kOhms&pv3=370&sf=0&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25

Looks like with the cheapest shipping to be about $6
@ $0.83 each, get a few - shipping will stay the same.

But…
Wait until you hear from the FB crew that this is a) the right part and b) a good path forward.

Actually, this looks like a diode…
(forget my last comment… :slight_smile:)
Let me see if I can find THAT part…

This might be the right part…

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Diodes-Incorporated/1N4148W-7-F?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvilazpv%2BFqvbevgE8TPEOt

Again, need to get buy-off from FB Folks

If it is a diode, the circuit might have had some back-current that caused it to blow, which might mean that aside from frying the part, no other damage may have occurred - just a thought


#7

I hope so
@Intelbotfarmer I need it by may 6
Or would a v1.7 work in place of it?


#8

Since you have urgency, maybe send a PM to the FarmBot folks and explain your dilemma.


#9

ok thank you for your help


#10

@FRC_5541 I’m not experienced enough with electronics to know if replacing the D1 component will solve the problem, as it is possible that other components on the board are damaged as well, but you’re certainly welcome to try out the procedure.

If you need to replace the board altogether, we’re in a bit of a dilemma as we don’t have any v1.3 Farmduinos left in stock. We don’t have any v1.4 boards officially left either, but I could scrounge one up to get your bot back on track. Please note that upgrading to a v1.4 board will also require other components. If you decide to upgrade, please email contact@farm.bot with your order details so we can add in a v1.4 board to the order.

You could also try a downgrade to Arduino/RAMPS as those electronics are very readily available, though you’ll need to figure out how to get everything connected again (jumper wires?) because your v1.3 cables have connectors that RAMPS can’t accept.


#11

Imho it might be worth the try to replace the part at D1 (if you have the tools & skill - would also need the part info)
Worst case it re-burns (do a dry run with no connected devices first.)
If the alternative is to replace the board…
If it is a diode (I think it is) and it is on a rail associated with the motors, it could have fried from back current from manually moving the motors. If this is true, and the condition is not replicated, all might be good…